Liberties

Liberties

Located in the southwest of Dublin’s inner city, The Liberties stands as one of the capital’s most historic and vibrant communities. This area, historically significant for its manorial past, is renowned for its working-class heritage, rich historical landmarks, and lively cultural scene.

The name “Liberties” reflects the area’s unique historical governance. Originating from the 12th-century Anglo-Norman period, “liberties” referred to lands that, while part of the city, retained their own jurisdiction. This setup included the Liberty of St. Sepulchre under the Archbishop of Dublin and the Liberty of Thomas Court and Donore associated with the Abbey of St. Thomas the Martyr. These liberties extended from the Liffey in the north to St. Patrick’s Cathedral in the east, covering the modern boundaries of The Liberties area.

In the 16th and 17th centuries, The Liberties became known for its weaving industry, driven by immigrant Huguenots. Despite early prosperity, the industry faced decline due to restrictive English trade policies and changing economic conditions. By the 19th century, the area was marked by poverty and tenement housing, though efforts such as the construction of the Tenter House provided some relief to struggling weavers.

The area has undergone significant transformation in recent decades. Once an industrial hub, The Liberties is now a thriving center of culture and commerce. The Guinness Brewery remains a major economic player, with the Guinness Storehouse drawing 1.6 million visitors annually. Additionally, the resurgence of craft distilling is evidenced by new ventures like Teeling Whiskey’s distillery, which invigorates Dublin’s brewing traditions.

The Liberties is home to several cultural institutions. Thomas Street houses the National College of Art and Design (NCAD), Ireland’s largest art college.

The Liberties is rich in historical landmarks and modern attractions. Christ Church Cathedral and St. Patrick’s Cathedral, two of Dublin’s most significant churches, are located within its boundaries. Notably, St. Patrick’s Cathedral is built on a small island between two branches of the River Poddle.

Association with Poddle

The Poddle runs through the liberties in a number of ways.

  • The main Poddle river flows from Blackpitts to the back of New Row and Clanbrassil Street, through the Cross Poddle and down Patrick’s Street.
  • The City Watercourse ran down the centre for Thomas Street from James street to Christchurch and is now underground.
  • The Common Stream runs at the back of Cork Street and the Coombe to St. Patrick’s Cathedral.
  • The Abbey Stream runs through Marrowbone Lane, Ardee Street and Mill Street.

The Poddle, known by various names such as Puddle and Soulagh, was once Dublin’s primary water source. By 1244, with Dublin’s expansion, the Poddle’s water supply was augmented by rerouting water from the Dodder River via the City Watercourse, which was in use until 1775.

The Poddle’s historical significance is highlighted by several events. On August 4, 1752, city officials celebrated the area’s historic jurisdiction, but mischief-makers stole the ceremonial City Sword from the Poddle, prompting a swift response from the Poddle Guard. Flooding has been a persistent issue, with notable floods in 1670, 1784, and 1802 causing significant damage. The 1834 Dodder flood, which rose seven feet in just 25 minutes, further demonstrated the area’s vulnerability to sudden inundations.

The Poddle also played a crucial role in supporting the local dyers in the Liberties area, as noted by Father Ronan on June 30, 1929. The river’s historical and cultural significance extends to modern times, with the Olympia Theatre, built over the Poddle, connecting its past with the present. The river’s course beneath the theatre and its role in Dublin’s historical narrative highlight the enduring legacy of The Liberties and its vital waterway.

What the Newspapers Say

  • On August 4, 1752, Dublin’s Liberties area was ceremonially inspected by city officials, celebrating its historic jurisdiction. During the event, some mischief-makers at the Poddle River stole the ceremonial City Sword, leading to a swift intervention by the Poddle Guard. The thief was captured and sent to Newgate Prison. Additionally, a report from 1777 in the Hibernian Journal lamented Dublin’s cleanliness issues, criticising ineffective street cleaning despite substantial funding and calling for legislative action to address the city’s sanitation problems.
  • On June 30, 1929, Father Ronan noted that between 1245 and 1254, the combined flow of the Dodder and Poddle Rivers provided Dublin’s old capital with an average of 613,200 gallons of water daily. This water not only served urban needs but also, after passing through rural mills, flowed into the Liberties area. There, it played a crucial role in supporting the local dyers, who relied on it for their trades.
  • On September 13, 1931, it was noted that Dublin and its Liberties area have long suffered from severe floods caused by local rivers. Historically, the Dodder and Poddle rivers were particularly tumultuous, often causing significant damage. Notable floods include the 1670 Liffey overflow, the 1784 Poddle flood reaching six feet at St. Patrick’s Cathedral, and the 1802 flood that devastated the city, including the Poddle and Liffey. The 1834 Dodder flood rose seven feet in just 25 minutes, highlighting the area’s vulnerability to sudden and destructive inundations.
  • On April 27, 1963, it was highlighted that the historic Parish of St. Nicholas Without in Dublin stretches between New Street and the Poddle River. Originally near Limerick Alley, the parish church used St. Patrick’s Cathedral’s north transept as a temporary church from 1784 until its restoration in 1825. Formed in 1708, the parish of St. Luke was created to accommodate overflow from St. Patrick’s. The church, standing at the Coombe, underwent various renovations, including re-roofing in 1835 and extensive repairs in 1884. Notable features include the gold gilt cherubs in the gallery and a 16th-century chest.
  • On June 16, 1973, an article highlighted Sister Ann Dominica Fitzgerald’s passion for the River Poddle, a watercourse flowing through Dublin’s Liberties. Sister Ann, a dedicated “Poddleologist,” traced the Poddle’s path, often falling into it, as part of her historical research. Her findings, featured in the book The Liberties of Dublin – Its History, People and Future, suggest the Poddle’s role in Dublin’s early settlement and its influence on the city’s name, “Dubhlinn.” Her work, part of a broader study on the River Liffey, underscores the Poddle’s significance in Dublin’s social history.
  • On February 15, 1975, an article revealed that the Olympia Theatre in Dublin is built over the River Poddle, which flows underground through the Liberties and beneath the theatre. A manhole provides access to the river’s course, which extends to Harold’s Cross. The Poddle has historical intrigue, with rumours of its use by Michael Collins’s men during the War of Independence. The article also highlighted current efforts to restore the Olympia Theatre, which suffered damage from a girder fall. The theatre’s connection to the Poddle underscores its historical and cultural significance in Dublin.
  • On December 24, 1975, the Olympia Theatre showcased “Zoz” by Joe O’Donnell, celebrating the colourful history of Dublin’s Liberties. The play, inspired by the eccentric blind balladeer Michael Moran, known as Zozimu, aimed to evoke the spirit of the early 19th-century Liberties. The Poddle River, which flows beneath the theatre, symbolically connected the performance to the historical area. Despite grand intentions, the play struggled with its adaptation from radio to stage. However, the performance was highlighted by Frank Kelly’s portrayal of Zoz and Gerry Lundberg’s comedic role as his mute companion, bringing a touch of the Liberties’ past to life.
  • A thousand years ago, Dublin was a bustling Viking port primarily located on the south side of the Liffey. The Poddle River, flowing from the Tallaght Hills, was crucial to the city’s development. It merged with the Liffey at Wellington Quay, creating the “Linn Dubh” or Black Pool, from which Dublin derives its name. This pool was vital for shipbuilding and refitting. By 988, Dublin was a thriving Viking city with a network of streets and alleys. The Poddle’s course under the city, including its role in the Liberties, was central to Dublin’s early infrastructure and commerce.
  • The River Poddle, known by various names such as Puddle and Soulagh, was once Dublin’s main water source. By 1244, with Dublin’s expansion, water needs grew, leading to the rerouting of Dodder water into the Poddle via the City Watercourse. The Poddle, now mostly underground, flows from Templeogue, splitting near Mount Argus, with branches reuniting at Patrick’s and Dean Streets before merging with the Liffey. St. Patrick’s Cathedral, built on an island between the Poddle’s strands, faced frequent flooding. The river’s pollution from nearby industries led to it being covered in the 18th century.
Related newspaper articles
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Two centuries ago
8 Aug 1752

Last Tuesday (4th) the Liberties and Franchises of this City were ridden and perambulated by the Lord Mayor, Sheriffs, Aldermen, and City Officers, and by the, 24 Corporations who all…

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Serious fire outbreak in Dublin
17 Sep 1906

Our Dublin correspondent says —A big blaze occurred in the small hours of the 15th inst. in Messrs. Barnatt’s food stores, Fumbally’s Lane, in the Liberties, west of St. Patrick’s…

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Commentary on Crumlin Cross
30 Jun 1929

Father Ronan has computed that the watercourse of the combined Dodder and Poddle Rivers formed between the year 1245 and 1254, supplied a daily average of 613,200 gallons to the…

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Dublin Floods of Former Days
13 Sep 1931

The recent disastrous floods recall the many severe inundations that affected Dublin and its suburbs in years gone by. For centuries past residents in the city and Liberties have suffered…

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Parish of St. Nicholas Without
27 Apr 1963

The Parish of St. Nicholas Without, is one of the most historic parishes in Dublin City. It is a long narrow strip between New Street, and the Poddle, and is…

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The Liberty Watercourse
22 Mar 1968

The Poddle River at Harold’s Cross makes almost its last appearance before going underground. This was part of the old Watercourse serving the Liberties of St. Patrick’s, dating back to…

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Crosstick Alley
15 Jan 1971

This is Crosstick Alley, which leads from Francis Street to Meath Street, by way of Garden Lane. Liam’s drawing shows the final section, just before you emerge into Meath Street,…

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City Scene
2 Jan 1973

IF DUBLIN SHOULD forget all about the Liberties it certainly won’t be the fault of the Liberties. What they’re at now is compiling a book which is due out any…

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Industrial Liberties
21 Jan 1973

LIAM took his stand to make this drawing just about where Dowker’s Lane comes in from the right, to meet Blackpitts. In the distance you can see the silvery outlines…

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Found-The Missing River Poddle
13 May 1973

Found..The Missing Poddle My discovery of the week was that the River Poddle still flows above ground in the heart of Old Dublin. The members of the Old Dublin Society…

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Up the creek at the “Poddle Millrace”
3 Jun 1973

Sir — Your columnist Des Hickey is respectfully a bit up the creek when he writes of his “new” discovery of the Poddle millrace in William Talbot’s back garden at…

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A nun who dipped into history and got wet
16 Jun 1973

I FELL IN LOVE with a nun last night Sister Ann Dominica Fitzgerald endeared herself to me forever when she grinned with fiendish glee and described how she fell in…

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Left from the tannery
15 Sep 1973

THIS SLENDER factory chimney, with an elaborate coping in the Industrial Decorated ” style of the 19th century, stands in Cork Street, behind the premises of the Court Furniture Company.…

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A liberty street
29 Oct 1973

This is Mill Street which is a street truly in the Liberties as it runs from the top of New Row across to Clarence Mangan Road which was once top…

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And whatever the fare it flows
15 Feb 1975

The Olympia Theatre has some unusual features, including a stage that is situated at the front of the building, instead of the back. But until this week, when I went…

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Follow me says Sister Ann
7 Mar 1976

AT THREE O’CLOCK this afternoon, Sister Ann Dominica, a black-and-white garbed Dominican nun, will lead a tour along Dublin’s secret river, the Poddle. This years Dublin Arts Festival has Medieval…

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Memories of the Liberties
7 Oct 1980

Memories the Ul Liberties Zoz by Joe O’Donnell: Olympia The Christmas spirit came early to the Olympia last night when the ‘ghosts of the ‘Liberties’ past floated up from the…

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Mount Argus
16 Jul 1986

I first discovered Mount Argus way back in another lifetime when we used to climb the Dublin Mountains on St. Patrick’s Day. I think we took the wrong turn coming home and…

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Viking Dublin
25 Oct 1988

A THOUSAND years ago Dublin, though smaller and mainly built on the south side of the Liffey, was as thriving a port as it is today. Viking longships sailed from…

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13th century corn mill find
17 Jul 1990

13th century corn mill find THE DISCOVERY of a 13th century corn mill along: the bed of the River Poddle in Dublin’s Liberties is of major importance, and time and…

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How history flows through Dublin
10 Feb 2004

The River Poddle has been known by several different names over the centuries such as the Puddle, Pottle and the Podell. It was known as the Tiber and also as…

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