Liberties
Located in the southwest of Dublin’s inner city, The Liberties stands as one of the capital’s most historic and vibrant communities. This area, historically significant for its manorial past, is renowned for its working-class heritage, rich historical landmarks, and lively cultural scene.
The name “Liberties” reflects the area’s unique historical governance. Originating from the 12th-century Anglo-Norman period, “liberties” referred to lands that, while part of the city, retained their own jurisdiction. This setup included the Liberty of St. Sepulchre under the Archbishop of Dublin and the Liberty of Thomas Court and Donore associated with the Abbey of St. Thomas the Martyr. These liberties extended from the Liffey in the north to St. Patrick’s Cathedral in the east, covering the modern boundaries of The Liberties area.
In the 16th and 17th centuries, The Liberties became known for its weaving industry, driven by immigrant Huguenots. Despite early prosperity, the industry faced decline due to restrictive English trade policies and changing economic conditions. By the 19th century, the area was marked by poverty and tenement housing, though efforts such as the construction of the Tenter House provided some relief to struggling weavers.
The area has undergone significant transformation in recent decades. Once an industrial hub, The Liberties is now a thriving center of culture and commerce. The Guinness Brewery remains a major economic player, with the Guinness Storehouse drawing 1.6 million visitors annually. Additionally, the resurgence of craft distilling is evidenced by new ventures like Teeling Whiskey’s distillery, which invigorates Dublin’s brewing traditions.
The Liberties is home to several cultural institutions. Thomas Street houses the National College of Art and Design (NCAD), Ireland’s largest art college.
The Liberties is rich in historical landmarks and modern attractions. Christ Church Cathedral and St. Patrick’s Cathedral, two of Dublin’s most significant churches, are located within its boundaries. Notably, St. Patrick’s Cathedral is built on a small island between two branches of the River Poddle.
Association with Poddle
The Poddle runs through the liberties in a number of ways.
- The main Poddle river flows from Blackpitts to the back of New Row and Clanbrassil Street, through the Cross Poddle and down Patrick’s Street.
- The City Watercourse ran down the centre for Thomas Street from James street to Christchurch and is now underground.
- The Common Stream runs at the back of Cork Street and the Coombe to St. Patrick’s Cathedral.
- The Abbey Stream runs through Marrowbone Lane, Ardee Street and Mill Street.
The Poddle, known by various names such as Puddle and Soulagh, was once Dublin’s primary water source. By 1244, with Dublin’s expansion, the Poddle’s water supply was augmented by rerouting water from the Dodder River via the City Watercourse, which was in use until 1775.
The Poddle’s historical significance is highlighted by several events. On August 4, 1752, city officials celebrated the area’s historic jurisdiction, but mischief-makers stole the ceremonial City Sword from the Poddle, prompting a swift response from the Poddle Guard. Flooding has been a persistent issue, with notable floods in 1670, 1784, and 1802 causing significant damage. The 1834 Dodder flood, which rose seven feet in just 25 minutes, further demonstrated the area’s vulnerability to sudden inundations.
The Poddle also played a crucial role in supporting the local dyers in the Liberties area, as noted by Father Ronan on June 30, 1929. The river’s historical and cultural significance extends to modern times, with the Olympia Theatre, built over the Poddle, connecting its past with the present. The river’s course beneath the theatre and its role in Dublin’s historical narrative highlight the enduring legacy of The Liberties and its vital waterway.
What the Newspapers Say
- On August 4, 1752, Dublin’s Liberties area was ceremonially inspected by city officials, celebrating its historic jurisdiction. During the event, some mischief-makers at the Poddle River stole the ceremonial City Sword, leading to a swift intervention by the Poddle Guard. The thief was captured and sent to Newgate Prison. Additionally, a report from 1777 in the Hibernian Journal lamented Dublin’s cleanliness issues, criticising ineffective street cleaning despite substantial funding and calling for legislative action to address the city’s sanitation problems.
- On June 30, 1929, Father Ronan noted that between 1245 and 1254, the combined flow of the Dodder and Poddle Rivers provided Dublin’s old capital with an average of 613,200 gallons of water daily. This water not only served urban needs but also, after passing through rural mills, flowed into the Liberties area. There, it played a crucial role in supporting the local dyers, who relied on it for their trades.
- On September 13, 1931, it was noted that Dublin and its Liberties area have long suffered from severe floods caused by local rivers. Historically, the Dodder and Poddle rivers were particularly tumultuous, often causing significant damage. Notable floods include the 1670 Liffey overflow, the 1784 Poddle flood reaching six feet at St. Patrick’s Cathedral, and the 1802 flood that devastated the city, including the Poddle and Liffey. The 1834 Dodder flood rose seven feet in just 25 minutes, highlighting the area’s vulnerability to sudden and destructive inundations.
- On April 27, 1963, it was highlighted that the historic Parish of St. Nicholas Without in Dublin stretches between New Street and the Poddle River. Originally near Limerick Alley, the parish church used St. Patrick’s Cathedral’s north transept as a temporary church from 1784 until its restoration in 1825. Formed in 1708, the parish of St. Luke was created to accommodate overflow from St. Patrick’s. The church, standing at the Coombe, underwent various renovations, including re-roofing in 1835 and extensive repairs in 1884. Notable features include the gold gilt cherubs in the gallery and a 16th-century chest.
- On June 16, 1973, an article highlighted Sister Ann Dominica Fitzgerald’s passion for the River Poddle, a watercourse flowing through Dublin’s Liberties. Sister Ann, a dedicated “Poddleologist,” traced the Poddle’s path, often falling into it, as part of her historical research. Her findings, featured in the book The Liberties of Dublin – Its History, People and Future, suggest the Poddle’s role in Dublin’s early settlement and its influence on the city’s name, “Dubhlinn.” Her work, part of a broader study on the River Liffey, underscores the Poddle’s significance in Dublin’s social history.
- On February 15, 1975, an article revealed that the Olympia Theatre in Dublin is built over the River Poddle, which flows underground through the Liberties and beneath the theatre. A manhole provides access to the river’s course, which extends to Harold’s Cross. The Poddle has historical intrigue, with rumours of its use by Michael Collins’s men during the War of Independence. The article also highlighted current efforts to restore the Olympia Theatre, which suffered damage from a girder fall. The theatre’s connection to the Poddle underscores its historical and cultural significance in Dublin.
- On December 24, 1975, the Olympia Theatre showcased “Zoz” by Joe O’Donnell, celebrating the colourful history of Dublin’s Liberties. The play, inspired by the eccentric blind balladeer Michael Moran, known as Zozimu, aimed to evoke the spirit of the early 19th-century Liberties. The Poddle River, which flows beneath the theatre, symbolically connected the performance to the historical area. Despite grand intentions, the play struggled with its adaptation from radio to stage. However, the performance was highlighted by Frank Kelly’s portrayal of Zoz and Gerry Lundberg’s comedic role as his mute companion, bringing a touch of the Liberties’ past to life.
- A thousand years ago, Dublin was a bustling Viking port primarily located on the south side of the Liffey. The Poddle River, flowing from the Tallaght Hills, was crucial to the city’s development. It merged with the Liffey at Wellington Quay, creating the “Linn Dubh” or Black Pool, from which Dublin derives its name. This pool was vital for shipbuilding and refitting. By 988, Dublin was a thriving Viking city with a network of streets and alleys. The Poddle’s course under the city, including its role in the Liberties, was central to Dublin’s early infrastructure and commerce.
- The River Poddle, known by various names such as Puddle and Soulagh, was once Dublin’s main water source. By 1244, with Dublin’s expansion, water needs grew, leading to the rerouting of Dodder water into the Poddle via the City Watercourse. The Poddle, now mostly underground, flows from Templeogue, splitting near Mount Argus, with branches reuniting at Patrick’s and Dean Streets before merging with the Liffey. St. Patrick’s Cathedral, built on an island between the Poddle’s strands, faced frequent flooding. The river’s pollution from nearby industries led to it being covered in the 18th century.